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Got thrown off the GT, board took off without my command, petition to Evolve to fix remote

Discussion in 'Carbon GT' started by wiztecy, Nov 11, 2016.

More threads by wiztecy
  1. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    Took the motor covers off, still rattling. GT emblems are not rattling. Now I'm thinking the motor bearings or possibly the wheel spacers. Its coming from the rear/motor/ wheel area. However I'm running different correct spacers in my other wheels, the 90mm, so I wouldn't think it would be those inside. Possibly the way they tapered the shaft on the rear, like I said its coming from the rear.... Why didn't Evolve look at this like I asked them to when they had it? They're to be the experts on this board.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2016
  2. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    Ok... so taking my wheels off, I'm pulling the inside rear wheel spacers out to test if the rattle goes away. Pulled one wheel and spacer off and put that wheel on. Pulled the other wheel off, pull the bearing out to get to the spacer and the entire inside of the wheel is filled with silicone type lubricant. So Evolve must have pulled off the wheel to diagnose the rattle as I had asked them to. But why send the board back? Its just as bad as it was when I sent it to them. Ok, more of my time diagnosing this and now I have to scoop all that white lubricant out.
     
  3. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    Took the wheel spacers out plus the speed rings / washers that are between the hub cog and the inner bearing... that bearing does absolutely nothing and doesn't need to be in there. Took the board out for a ride, still sounds like a bottle of beans.

    So now, possibly something inside the battery cover or motor? Possibly something with the tapered shaft / hub in the rear, but I think that's pretty tight and secure from what I looked at and the way I have it now. Putting the spacers back inside the wheels, actually going to put back on my 90mm's and go from there. Done for testing / diagnosing the rattle for now....
     
  4. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    I think I found the issue, my motor shaft moves in and out quite a bit!!!! Just figured this out when swapping out to the 90mm wheels. Evolve!!! What the hey?? take the belt off, and then pull / push your motor shaft. Mine clicks and moves in and out. Bad.

    Anyways, going to order some top of the line bearings for the motor and will be doing my own Fix/Repair to resolve the issue.

    Sheeze.
     
  5. LuckyCharms

    LuckyCharms Member

    What a pity. What bearings are you going to go with? You seem to know what you're yakking about so I am shamelessly copying you. Lol

     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    I'll put hybrid ceramics in there, one day will put the grey high quality full ceramics in. The way it seems is that its not a bearing issue, but I'll change those out while I'm in there. The motor body contacts with the motor shroud, the black ring by the motor mount. It that's part of the motor but does not spin with the motor by the mount. To remove this slop I'll most likely need to put a spacer in there to prevent it from contacting or at least to dampen it when the shaft moves in / out.

    Actually you can test this slop with your wheels on, just pull on your motor hub in an in/out direction. You can feel it move back and forth and click. Both my MetroBoard brushless motors don't do this! They're tight as a duck's ass in water. But I also can't find them for $40 a pop either.... Much higher.

    ...also when I go in there I'm replacing all the crappy set screws and mounting hardware with stainless. They're all rusted now and I haven't even ridden the board in any moisture type environment.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2016
  7. LuckyCharms

    LuckyCharms Member

    I was thinking about replacing the screws (deck screws and otherwise) with stainless as well. Reason is I have seen more than a few videos where the screws on the board are looking rusty. Perhaps the bolts should be replaced as well.

     
  8. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    Good point. All the screws / hardware should be replaced with stainless that's exposed to the outside. Companies tend to skimp here since it cuts down the cost across a number of boards. My MetroBoard has all stainless steel hardware, even my 1st gen ones came that way. Its a nice sign of quality and makes you feel that a company isn't nickle and diming you across a population.

     
  9. forbesmyester

    forbesmyester Member

    May sound like a silly idea but have you tried riding the opposite way on the board? Maybe the opposite motor will get hotter?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    Do you honestly think I trust my board enough to ride the other way, I ride goofy normally. Being sarcastic but not really... You may have not read this thread entirely to get that, but I don't expect you to (read it in its entity) :) But thanks for your input!

    Anyways, the turning / riding style is a moot point. This happens just going straight up and down the road.

     
  11. forbesmyester

    forbesmyester Member

    Just sprang to mind and thought it might help. I must have missed the post where you explained about your stance being goofy. I will not bother you again.

     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    No, totally happy you helped! Everybody's input counts. I modified my post above before you got to read it to show the sarcasm :) Apologize I didn't get to it sooner, you think about things in email/forums later and think they may take it out of context! My sense of humor has turned dark after all this!

    Here's a thread that discusses more in detail about the motor temps, funkyj did some good debugging trying to identify why this was happening:

    Motor temps - right vs left

    Funky's conclusion is that if the motor is running in the opposite direction or pole that the reverse happens, the other side heats up. So I cough this up to very cheap / low cost motors honestly. As I mentioned we found them at retail cost for $40 a pop.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2016
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    • Informative Informative x 1
  13. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    ....more riding and testing. No dropouts, remote is way smoother than before. Lets cross our fingers this hold ups like that, if so I'll be stoked. It is one fun ride if you can have trust in it.
     
    • Like Like x 3
  14. Kenneth

    Kenneth Member

    Don`t really understand all your post`s.
    If you wonder if there is the back wheel or engine thats make this noise, Its takes like 5min
    to swap the front and back wheel`s, and do a test to see where the sound is still there. If it is then you know its not the wheels.

    Have you seen if the belt touch the belt cover?

    Then open the lid, and un-connect one motor, test and se if the sound is gone. then connect it back and unconnected the other one.
    If you now have a motor thats making this sound. ship it back and they ship you a new one.

    Hope you figure this out.
    Cheer
     
  15. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    So far so good with the board acting properly and the remote. Not a single dropout, acceleration and braking has a good predictable feel now which it never had before. Building up confidence in it. Went out for a night time 32F degree ride up and down the road by the coast, was a carving dream. Smooth. Even swapped the remote to my rear hand since it was working great and plus my front hand was turning numb! Need to make a special glove with an exposed trigger finger for the GT. Will take it into work today taking it a bit easier around town and the city to see how it behaves.

    And Kenneth, thanks for the suggestions. Yes I went through all that, took the belt covers off, pulled the spacers out of the wheels and ran the board, changed out to a completely different new set of wheels bearings, checked the GT label on the back, shook / tapped the board on the ground. Nothing. Riding the board its coming from the motor area. Nothing shakes in the motors. However if I pull my motors away from the motor mount there's about 1/8 inch or more play and it pops back in place due the magnet. My guess is when the motors or running, when on rough pavement, one or both of the motors are clacking in and out due to vibrations coming through the board from the pavement. I may be able to loosen the 4 allen screws on the end of the motor and see if I can push the body of the motor in to the motor face place. If so I may be able to clean up that gap / slop. As I mentioned above, both my MetroBoards don't have any gap or slop in the motor like that. If I can't do anything without taking the motors apart, I'll take them apart and install full or hybrid ceramic bearings in the motors. Then see if that helps alleviate the issue. That board is super quiet, nothing rattles at all on it. That's the way I want to get my GT, otherwise people look at you like you're riding a slick looking rattle snake.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2016
    • Like Like x 3
  16. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    ...riding downtown in Santa Cruz was good, took the same route where I had dropouts and bad remote input/feedback. All was smooth. Looking good.
     
    • Cool! Cool! x 4
    • Like Like x 1
  17. Zac

    Zac Member

    Your Metro board is quiet? Every Metroboard I've seen is a rattle-trap
     
  18. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    Yes, totally quiet. Which version of the Metro? The brushless out-runner version? Even my two brushed motor versions are quiet with no rattles as well as my 2 newer Outrunner Metros.
     
  19. Zac

    Zac Member

    No clue. I didn't even know what a Metroboard was until 2 months ago.. The motor was in front of the rear axle on the only two I've seen in person
     
  20. OP
    wiztecy

    wiztecy Member

    After about a week of my board back I can say its much better but not still perfect. Had only one dropout during the week of riding to/back from work in a city / town environment. So that's pretty good. What isn't good is the sensitivity coming from the remote to the board, so that improved but there's still some issue in there. Meaning if I take off in Fast or GT mode it will chatter or snap into a quick acceleration, such as from choppy input. They replaced the motor controller and by far this has been the smoothest most trusting time of the board. But I haven't put 100% trust in it. I've been using the new remote to "downshift" into fast and even eco mode when around people or cars. And that isn't a bad habit to get into, however don't double tap fast to downshift or else you'll end up in the wheel menu or some other place. So a bug in the UI there. A long press should take you into the menu system.

    If Evolve did soften the curves in the new remote firmware I'd like to try that. However its much much better but no cigar yet for me in terms of how it should ride for safety..
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
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