Found our motors, cheap

If you have to think that many times then you can't afford the board or up keep, I'm just sayin ;-)

 

I think you can´t get more power with stronger motors, the strength will be less. The max current to the motors is limited to 30A per Motor. So you have to use more efficient motors to get more out of it or a power board redesign. But I don´t see any reason why you would need stronger motors. I´m 225 lbs and the torque is more than enough.
But for the batteries LG HG2 (brown) are perfect. Samsung 30Q´s (pink ones) are good as well(maybe the same) but I don´t know if they fit as 5p10s but since they are a bit cheaper it´s worth a try.

 

200Kv would actually give me less torque but a higher top speed. The loss of torque doesn't really bother me since I weigh about 145. Most of the roads I go on are long straights so I might benefit from the extra speed.

 

The problem is that the requirement for the motor to run at top speed (rpm) you need more than 30A. The whole motor is less efficient. So you will lose top speed and toque if you keep the original power board.
So... yes it has more rpm´s per volt, but the current is limited by the power board, so it doesn´t work

 

Interesting. So the whole build is pretty much scrapped lol as that's the central piece. I still want better quality batteries for the board I have right now - I'm trying to choose between Samsung 25R, LG HG2 etc. I really want to keep voltage sag at a minimum and since I can't use VTC6 cells, I'd like to stay close to the estimated range.

 

Here is a direct comparison between 25R an HG2 at 5Amps. As you can see the voltage level under load is a bit better on the HG2. I cant say anything about quality in terms of cycles yet, as my battery pack has only a few rides on it
At least I know it´s way better than the VTC6. I´ve seen a test comparison where the LG HG2 had more max capacity than the VTC6 after only 25 cycles

 

Actually the 200Kv motor would have the same amount of torque, but needs higher currents to get there. So you would need a very strong battery and controller board...and bms to provide enough current

 

Test the motors to see what their max amp draw is currently. You can do that, we have the hidden menu that shows it. With a fully charged battery, find a very steep hill, put the remote in that screen, then in GT mode accelerate full throttle and see what the highest amount of amps you draw. With no load I can only get most for the motors to peak at 5 amps max. But that will go up when your heading up hills and putting load on the board. Curious what the max is.

 

30A per motor is max, I´m pretty sure about that. If you go to the secret battery menu you will have 65A thats because you are getting this info from the bms (not the controller board like in the secret motor menu) and we´re loosing 5A in heat on the motor controller

 

I guess I'll just find a way to get a 26T gear and corresponding belts.

 

You can have the gears made by a 3d printer but I question how the durability will be compared to stock evolve. Best route is to start googling and following other consumer eboard and DIY web stores. I don't like the through bolted ones in terms of looks and much prefer the evolve / abec style. If you find gears that have the belts too wide, you can cut them down. Most likely you'll find ones that are smaller in width which should work fine. Hardest part is finding one that is geared so high / low # of teeth. Timing belts are readily available in different lengths, widths and tooth size as well as pitch if you wanted to do that.

 

What do you mean?

 

What kind of additional range are you getting after swapping over to HG2s?

I ask because I've got a bunch on order along with a welder and I'm wondering what kind of gains I'll see when I get it put together. I would imagine double capacity = at least double range, especially since the original battery has such a bad problem with sag I feel like I run out of juice due to sag long before its given its total usable capacity.

 

Make sure you triple tag your packs so that the current can really flow otherwise you will get cutouts. And return wire needs to be thick to reduce resistance. Resistance causes voltage sag under load.

 

10s5p with HG2 is 15AH. Original is 10AH so about 50% more range. The voltage stability is also better, so you have a better use out of the capacity under high loads. So in my experience I get about 60-70% more out of the battery before it drops to eco-mode

 

Nice! I've got one of the older remotes that doesn't switch into Eco. With less sag I shouldn't have to worry so much about it unexpectedly dropping below the cutoff voltage, so I can ease it down.

Anything special about wiring this guy up? I was planning on doing a butterfly 10s4p battery, but instead of doing multiple tags on top of each other on the outer edges I'm planning on soldering coper wire to the outer tags prior to attaching them. I've seen this on a few builds & it seems like it should handle the amps.

 

Just let your creativity flow
Everything that fits and keeps the resistance as low as possible is just perfect.
But keep in mind that all my experiences are with 5 cells in parallel. You might loose some voltage stability as each cell has to take 16A instead of 13A on highest load. But I think it will still be way better than the original pack. Also you have at least 25% more capacity

 

Ahh, yeah I'm doing a 10s4p because I'm putting it in a Bamboo. I believe the bamboo only comes with a stock 6AH battery, so this should give me 100% more range, assuming everything fits.

 

Nice man! Hope it works