Kaly.NYC 2-in-1 Urban Street Carver - First Impressions

After some months of placing my order I received my build, its an Urban 2-in-1 Street Carver built by a guy named Ernesto who runs a company called Kaly.NYC. Reason why it took some time was that Ernesto is very passionate for striving to make a quality product, he is a very passionate person who contributes and gives back to the E-board community. The major delay was that Ernesto found a crack developing on the rear hanger or truck of the Trampa mini-truck. This occurred while running the board through the bumpy New York city streets and also while running the knobby MBS 100mm wheels. He talked to Frank at Trampa who said he never had customers crack the truck in that way and blamed the vibrations coming from the knobby hard urethane wheels, not only that, due to the small contact pacth they delivered to the road. They curve up from the middle of the wheel so the vibrations get driven harder up into the truck. I looked at the stress and noted that the rear motors have quite some weight and size to them, that the motor mounts act like a lever to this stress and magnify it by quite a multiplier. Not only that, the Trampa mini-trucks were milled out or cut via CNC to lighten them up and make them look quite pleasing to the eyes. However those cuts are where exactly the crack started running to, so it was the weakest part of the system with all these vibrations. I asked Ernesto if Trampa had a solid hanger, and he said they did. I said if we throw that solid hanger on the back the structure would be greatly improved to deal with the weight and vibration stresses. Ernesto also went and began cutting off or shaving down the knobbies on the MBS wheels so that vibrations would not be created as they initially were with the wheels and the contact patch widened. After we got past that issue, I asked Ernesto to swap out the Trampa AT street tire which really looks like crap on these boards. At no extra charge Ernesto swapped them out for the Evolve AT street tire that comes with the GT. Makes the board look tons better and it rides amazing. But with that I believe Ernesto discovered another problem that needed addressing, he needed more clearance for the AT belt to clear the sides of the AT tire. He modified his design on the motor mounts and got that dialed. Not only with the outside, but Ernesto was working with Ollin to get a top quality set of VESCs in the board. Ollin is pretty darn good with their VESC design plus he open sourced it which is awesome. But Ernesto blew out one VESC during testing and gave feedback back to Ollin. And a new set of VESCs came and worked perfectly. In all honestly I'm happy Ernesto took the time to make the board into one amazing performing and good looking piece of technology. Riding it I get way more head turns than what the Evolve GT ever got. But best of all the board rides, performs and handles like a well thought out, well tested, safe and reliable piece of equipment that you can trust. Ernesto has a little boy and he said that he needs to have it perform well and safe enough that his boy can be on it. So he does put some thought, emotion and thought into getting it done right.

One sweet thing is that I have full access to the VESC controller and can program how it and the motor perform and react to my user input via the remote. I discovered that when I was braking at low speeds the board wanted to throw me off. I did some googling on the software I needed to install on my computer, installed the BLDC program / utility and connected a USB mini cable from my computer to the board. Ernesto ran the VESC controller's USB connector to be accessible from outside the battery box. After some quick youtube tutorials on the BLDC utility I discovered the motor setting I needed to adjust, which was the Motor min (regen) setting. This handles the braking at low RPM, say 1500 RPM. It was a low RPM the board wanted to kick me off. It was set to -65 amps, I changed that value to -35 amps, so less regen on the braking. I wrote the new settings back to the VESC and then jumped on the board and tested it out. It worked perfectly, no more abrupt braking that was uncontrollable. Sweet.

As for the remote, I wanted the trigger RC mini remote. However Ernesto sent out a Boosted thumb style remote. No biggie but I had to relearn a new remote with a new board. But I eventually picked that up. The remote has a switch to drop down the performance of the board, easy braking and gradual acceleration. It was first set on this setting and I was like, well, this board isn't all that quick. Then I flicked the switch and, "Holy BatMan!!!" The ***** freaken flys! Its quick very quick on acceleration and the top speed is insane. Ernesto says it should do 34-36mph, I believe I've had it up to 28mph, way faster than what I ever had the GT to and there was much much more to the power / throttle curve. I ordered a full set of pads for when I do want to do some top speed testing. Also speaking of remotes, I had ZERO drop outs from this remote. I ran the board to work in areas that made my GT unpredictable and unsafe. I still need more time to test but the remote was responsive and worked excellent as it should.

The board is built on a Trampa deck with Trampa Trucks and AT hubs. Its essentially a mountain board. In order to get the board to carve, Ernesto pulled out all the bumpers in the outer springs. He noted the softest bumper was made the board too stiff and hard to turn. Also there's a way to preload the opposing spring so it helps compress the other when its in a turn. Mine has the bumpers removed. The board carves awesome really, and turns very very well. No issues. Its slightly a different feel and have more of a carving feel of a snowboard coming down the mountain. I like it. Also the deck flexes and has some spring to it. With the AT wheels, the flex of the deck and the springs of the trucks the ride of the board is very smooth and tackles the bumps and imperfections of the road with ease.

Here are some pics of my ride. This was yesterday when I just got the deck. I pulled off the grip-tape, cut it in jagged slices and sections, and re-added it back to the deck. I ride goofy foot, so the grip tape was setup backwards for me. I passed that on to Ernesto to get the rider's foot placement before he builds it. Ernesto is a man who welcomes feedback which I find to be a great character for any person and company.

Will post more after I ride some more.... also have to swap to the 100mm MBS wheels and see how the board rides and performs with that configuration.

All in all I'm very pleased and feel I got quite the deal and a great board. I enjoyed the 1-on-1 interaction and customer service Ernesto / Kaly.NYC provided, and highly recommend him to others. I ended up paying $2200 for the board and the way it came. I research doing the same build myself and it was at that number, usually you run over due to making mistakes and modifications in your design. So with Ernesto, that price also included shipping from NYC to Santa Cruz, CA which alone came to $82. No taxes which was sweet, I hate taxes. And the components are the best of the best. The motors I went with are the dual 190KV motors built by Alien motors with some customization recommendations from Ernesto. They sound very spacey when they spool up or brake, best sounding motors I've ever heard honestly. Ernesto also threw in the 4amp quick charger as the standard charger. Another nice addition. He hasn't seen any degradation using the fast charger on the Samsung 12S battery pack, so he prefers to ship it with the board.

All in all I'm very stoked!


Here's the official specifications Ernesto sent me of the board:

================================================================
The Build is Base on the Trampa Street Carver. Our design is a 2 in 1 system, we have made a custom aluminum mounts that work with our pulleys for a easy hot swap between Street and All Terrain configuration.

Specifications :

• The board is a Trampa Street Carver 15-16 ply.
• Dual configuration for street with MBS 100 mm urethane wheels and AT 7 inch pneumatics.

• The Gearing is 62T/16T for AT 7 inches wheels and 40T/16T for street urethane wheels. all pulleys are made out of aluminum 6061.

• The battery is a 12S-4P; 48V-530 W/h. 60Amps High discharge Samsung 30Q lithium ion Cells.

• Dual motors to choose: 6355 230Kv or 6374 190Kv -- all motor have hall sensor and custom shaft with keyway and doble flat spot.

• Dual VESC Direct FET V1.1 from www.ollinboardcompany.com available with stock firmware or arkmaniac watt control firmware with android app.

• 2.4Ghz Remote with option for trigger or thumb throttle style.

• It comes with a 50.4 V @ 4 Amps laptop style charger, for fast charging.

• The board top speed is + 30 mph.
  
  
• The range is around 20 miles depending on terrain, rider weight and riding style.
  
  
• The total weight is around 25Lb.
  
  
• We offer a 90 days warranty on manufacturing errors.
  
  
• After that a 60 days free labor repair service ( shipping not included )
  
  
• After this period a life time support and service.

================================================================

 

I've seen a lot of the process about this board on the other forum, super excited that you've finally got it!

Definitely glad to hear about it here too. I like the general attitude of the people on this site better, lol. Also, that definitely looks like what I'd like for the next board whenever one of the two I've got now gets too tired.

Any plans to check out some of Trampa's potential mid size wheels coming up (I think 125mm urethane on the superstar hubs, and 6 inch pneumatics)?

 

Thanks, I missed that post! Here it is, I'll have to see what they look like when they come out as well as the reviews on them. I'm looking ot pick up the 107mm ABEC 11 Fly's, they seem very fitting plus the motors have all the might to turn those heavy beasts. All 107mm Fly's are sold out it appears, new batches including the new Electric E-Board version (which is narrower than the traditional) should be coming towards the end of July of this year. In all honestly, the MBS 100mm wheels have the best fit in terms of look for the board. What's nice is that the Eboard community is really catching on and the companies out there are moving forward quite well with innovation and improved changes. I'm trying to see if the VESC 6 is going to catch on, you can push more current for longer periods of time with that controller. That really matters if you use the board off-road and tackle huge hills for a long duration. Also a note that I learned while all the mishaps on my Evolve GT. Its always best to learn a new board with the taller wheels, such as the AT wheels for me. Take the first couple of days just getting use to the remote feel and how the board reacts. I had a friend who was video taping me the first day I had it, I started off and road the board like a 99 year old granny. But I learned on the GT that there's no forgiveness. And in all honestly I should have had full pads on. With any new product you don't know what can happen and how things are setup, always good to play it safe until you learn the true behavior of the board /remote. I won't really push this board until a month has passed to insure its still doing well and handling with RF interference correctly. Also ts the board begins draining its voltage down, depending on how the controller is setup it can act different than when its fully charged. For example being thrown into ECO mode on the GT from GT mode on a lower battery limit. I have pretty good confidence in Ernesto and his configuration, however, everyone is different and most importantly the environment is different than what he tested in. Whats nice is that if I have issues or problems with this board I can have a two way conversation with Ernesto to understand why, and have it addressed / resolved wit my input. With Evolve its only a one way street, but that's typical of most manufacturers.

Here's the thread I found on the up and coming Trampa wheels:

TRAMPA Street & Urban Carver (WHATCHA THINK?) YAY OR NAY

 

....one thing is I don't think Ernesto has integrated the CAN bus feature on the dual VESC's. This allows a nifty feature called 'traction control' which you can enable in the BLDC utility. This tells the motors, say if you're making a left turn, to spin the left motor less of an RPM vs the right. It allows your turns to be sharper in a sense and gives your more traction and better cornering abilities. I also calibrated my remote in the BLDC program. There's an auto-detect wizard that detects your full throttle, center, and reverse positions on the remote. That way you have the full throw of the remote working as it should, smooth and very limited dead-spots. Something that the Evolve GT was horrible and dangerous with. My GT never had a consistent feel with the throttle / brake / potentiometer.

Ernesto never calibrated the remote so I'll pass that on as feedback to him so the board is better tuned.

Here's an excellent video tutorial on the BLDC program:

 

It look's bad ass!

 

Thanks! It is, the board rides over everything and feels very comfortable and smooth doing so. The GT was a rattle trap and shook my ankles to death even with the AT wheels on rough surfaces.

The beauty of this board and setup is that you can dial it in for your riding style and to the hardware/motors. I found the acceleration was to strong and a little touchy even though smooth and the braking was too strong at low RPMS. I dialed down the braking strength, but found it still to be an issue. Wasn't 100% comfortable with how the VESC was configured. The motors are sensor motors, however it was programed for sensorless. Sensor motors give you a smoother startup. So I dove into more information, forums, and you-tubes to understand what else I can configure in the BLDC program. What I found is that you can define your braking and throttle curves, sweet! So I did just that. I found settings an Eboard enthusiast contributed, programmed those values, and waaaa-laaaa, its pefect! Perfect ramping up/down of the acceleration and braking curves. The curves programmed into the VESC as the way I got it were not correct nor smooth. Custom configuration to your own style an liking, I love it. This is something you can't do with mass produced consumer boards and where the real fun begins!

I also tweaked in the BLDC program conservative shutdown and power reduction points for my battery as it works its way down to a lower voltage. This means no surprises getting thrown off the board due to an unexpected voltage drop and also being conservative where the battery shuts down to protect them to ensure longevity. Going to buy a BLE adapter for the VESC so I can change these values on demand via a smart-phone. That way if the battery / board shuts down to low voltage, and I know I set the values to be conservative but feel the trade-off of making it home on what's left in the battery is worth more than the risk, I can then lower the battery cut-off value and ride home under the boards power, bearing in mind not to do hard accelerations for battery protection. Good stuff.

Extended BLDC-TOOL with Watt Control Mode, PPM Cruise Control, individual Throttle-Curve and Android App

 

Just threw the street wheels on the street carver, very stable and agile like an Indy car. Excellent acceleration / braking response. Pretty amazing ride actually.

It Has a 15mm wide 40 tooth aluminum rear wheel pulley for the street setup. So solid there. Might want to play around and put two pulleys I have extra from the MetroBoard. They're 36T and 18mm wide. Would give more top end if I want it.

So the bad things..

The motor mounts are designed nice, however when you do that AT/Street swap it becomes a very clumsy process. The motor mount is a two piece and it uses a sliding motion by removing one screw and loosening the second. This allows the motor mount / motor to slide in / out. You then move the non-sliding screw inward on the motor mount if you want the street setup, and outward toward the motor if you want the AT setup. The screws are small but they are harden steel, so they're strong. But the look in a sense under-rated. But again they're hardened so they may be ok. Will do the calculations on the load / stresses there and see how they come up in terms of tolerances. Getting an allen wrench in there to loosen or tighten them is a pain and there's limited motion due to lack of space, so you struggle. I'm going to cut down an allen wrench to have it hug in closer to the screw/bolt. That should be enough to make it do-able and help remedy the struggling effect.

Another little issue is that the Trampa bearings are very tight and you have to press them into the street wheels. I may sand/hone out the wheel to make it fit better. Trampa sells only up to an ABEC 7 rating for the bearings. He's not pricey at all so that's nice, the Trampa shop, however he is over there in the UK area, so shipping and time. I ended up cross referencing the bearings both for street and AT. I found as high as ABEC 5's for the street on ebay / Amazon. I bought some that were ABEC 3s. For the AT I had even more limitations in choices,found 10 bearings for $8.99 shipped but no ABEC rating. Thing is we don't need our bearings to be all that precise there at the wheels and don't hit the max RPM limits of these ABEC ratings. Worse part is that I'm back to bulk ordering them from Trampa.

Lastly to make the street wheels work, just for the front axle. Ernesto forgot to put them in the package. I needed to make around a 10mm width spacer to push the wheel out. The rear has the pulley so its a natural spacer. The axle threads bottom out the nut plus its not set right with the rear wheels, meaning not in line. I used a bearing spacer in the street wheel as a template and to see how much spacing I needed. It was 10mm in width. Found a bronze spacer at the hardware store, cut it in half to shorten it and filed it down while doing some testing with it on the axle an putting the wheel on. Worked perfectly.

But with these issues which are very minor to me, I've very pleased. Pleased in the performance, range, handling, build quality and looks of the board. Pleased that I have had zero dropouts and the remote action is smooth and exactly what I envisioned the control should be, same with the acceleration / brake curves after I adjusted them via software.

Overall its the best board I've owned due to performance, quality., versatility and ride. Ernesto of Kaly.nyc did great job I'll have to say with this build.

 

So it appears I'm a magnet to design flaws

On this latest build I ended up getting thrown off the board doing 26mph! Was hitting a straight 1/8-1/4 throttle with the street wheels on and all of a sudden I heard the distinctive motor whine chance, oscillating, and I went ohhh no, not good and prepared for the worse. I put the remote in neutral, then the board began going into very intense and long speed wobbles. I held it as long as I could, most likely bled some of that 26mph down some. Then it got to the breaking snap point and I took a dive. Again loaded up with my backpack that has my morning veggie juice, laptop, and other goodies. Was able to get back on my feet, board was still rolling but stopped without hitting anything and a woman came out saying, hey you ok. Which I was. Just road rashed on my elbow area. Broke my juice which was in a glass bottle which I was bummed. Dripping out of my backpack like blood since I juice also fresh beets in the morning. At first I was thinking, drop out/RF interference with the remote. Kinda odd since the connection has been 100% solid. Spun the rear wheels and found the right one on the rear drive locked. I loosened the axle nut and it spun free, so the nut tightened itself then locked up!

That night I tore the rear wheels / pulleys off and began brainstorming with Ilan from Metroboard. Snapping pics and knowing there was some odd binding happening. What I use to do, which is 100% BAD and WRONG was to tighten the axle nut down until the wheel would bind then back off. DO NOT do that! If you have to do that you're riding on thin ice, literally. You should be able to crank down on that axle nut if everything is setup 100% correct until it won't crank down no more, the wheel should spin but nut have any excessive resistance, should spin without any serious resistance.

What I found with Ilan was that on the drive pulley for the street the ID of the pulley where the axle goes through does NOT allow the inner bearing race to spin freely, it binds it. So its setting the inner and outer bearing races locked on the same plain which is a total NO!!! I drilled out the pulley to about 1/2" which was drilled only enough to clear the 9.5mm axle. The 1/2" allowed the inner bearing race to spin free and not locked on the same plain as the outer bearing race. With that I gave feedback to Ernesto / Kaly who built the eboard. Note that day after I fell off the board I emailed Ernesto about a possible design issue. And that night I found out why. What I love is the next morning Ernesto also came to the same conclusion, he emailed me the day before saying that he's going to look into the situation. Well he came back saying yes, what I found was indeed the same issue he found and he said not to ride the board until a new set of modified pulleys are sent to me. I love that, he took control of the situation, made it a #1 priority since it was with safety of the board, addressed it and sent out mail other customers about new pulleys coming out and issued a hold on riding with the street setup until the pulleys are swapped. A+++. That's what I like to see. Issues are bound to happen as we push the edge of things, but when you don't let people know of the issues and worse don't fix or address them, that's a major issue in the product line and deployment and maintenance process. Something I feel Evolve failed miserably with when I owned and got injured on my GT.

I also found that Ernesto needs lock washers on the motor mount allen adjusting screws. He put non on nor any loctite. I put lock washers on all adjusting screws so that will be the end of that. I passed on that information to Ernesto as well to help improve on his design. The motor mounts rock!

Lastly, I am also adding blue loctite to my axle nuts. Falling off at 26mph and seeing this board can easily do 30-34mph there's no room for nuts and wheels popping off. Even though I'm sure now I've solved the whole issue of having axle nuts spin off or tighten on their own, a little loctite goes a long way for an extra safety measure that's rather inexpensive.

All in all I'm very very pleased with the board and with Ernesto taking charge and responsibility of his build and pushing for the highest performance and quality that can be achieved.

Crazy when I can't flat out gun the board for that it has so much power and speed, a board that deserves much much respect.

I'm also happy that there are no stupid drop-outs. Thing about this small nano style remote is that the remote needs to be first turned on BEFORE the board is activated or turned on. The thumb / throttle needs to go full throttle, neutral, and full brake. I do this twice. Then the board needs to be powered. If not the remote / board is very off and touchy, reminded me of my crazy Evolve GT. But if you do that process as I mentioned, the remote / board is 100% smooth and predictable on every ride. Talking with my friend we're thinking the remote has some sort of auto-calibration it does, however that it must somehow loose this setting when powered down. I calibrated the remote correctly via the BLDC tool, but still I need to follow this process.

Below is the motor pulley that shows the inner race of the bearing binding with it. I drilled out that hole so that the inner race could spin without binding. The silver wear is from the inner race. You can see where the outer race was, the scuffed up black area just about 1/2" or so out from the inner race.

Note that this issue does not occur with the AT setup since the pulley clears the bearings.

I also shaved down the short end of an allen wrench to make loosening and tightening of the motor mount screws easier. I had trouble there before. But its cake now. I made a stand for the board, put it up on a stool where it makes it easier to work and adjust the belts. I use a flat head screwdriver to lightly put tension on the bottom of the motor mount, to spread it out and tighten the belt. Tighten the allen bolts on the lower, remove the screwdriver, then tighten the top. Perfect belt tension everytime.

Again a big shout out to Ilan@Metroboard for working with me on this and being a good friend. And great friends all from buying his product and his excellent support which allowed me to learn more about this great sport!

 

Glad you got it sorted, definitely sounds like a monsterously capable board.

It's great to hear about the help you get with it too, and that it's working out so much better for you too!

Any idea if Kaly.NYC would be interested in a build with e toxx direct drives?

 

Thanks! Yes, totally stoked. The board gets all types of attention from people of all ages. Had a 71 year old guy on the bus the other day on my way to work chatting it up saying how cool it was and then today when I was doing errands all around town a lady who was about 55 or so talking it up, asking all about it and totally intrigued with it. Happy to share with people about the love of electrics! She saw that the board flexes and asked to stand on it which I allowed her, she was bouncing up and down on it and had a big smile on while doing so like she was on an amusement park ride

As for Kaly.NYC and the direct drive toxx, its interesting you mentioned that. As we were building mine I shot him a question / interest in that. Asking what his opinion was on the direct drive setup, he said he had just received a direct drive unit to install, test, and try out. I haven't heard from him after that nor asked. I'll hit him up when I get a moment and see how that's working out for him. So yes, I don't think it would be a issue to have a build done with that configuration.

Another sweet thing to mention is that the Trampa hangers/trucks use all stainless steel hardware. Very sweet. They also use stainless steel axle nuts, which isn't necessary but nice. Its good to replace those out often if your swapping wheels out due to that the nylon locks have a limited use / life. The speed rings are all stainless and the wheel spacers are aluminum. So no mush or deformed rings / spacers when you tighten down your wheels hard as you really should.

Really stoked on the motors, they have such an awesome sound to them and fitting for the board.

Yes, its great about the help. Ernesto as well as Ilan are people who very much are passionate about the sport, contribute and definitely give back. I love that type of attitude, another great entity of the sport.

 

I keep checking this post every day for updates. Very useful post.

 

Thanks. So as a quick update, board has been awesome. Still can't fully accelerate the thing due to its power and don't know if I'll every find the top end of it! Was playing around in a Costco parking lot one day when they were closed, on the 4th, and had tons of fun. I'm going to pick up some full pads so I can experiment with slides and finally punch it. That way if it throws me off I'll be prepared and ok.

The blue loctite on the wheel axles are working awesome. So that's the only way I'm going to ride now. I tightened the rear springs about 1/4 a turn to compress them. My stile is to lock the rears a bit more than the fronts for stability at higher speeds. So that feels good.

Right now working on a headlight / tail light setup. Going with the gopro light up front and then a LED light with turn signals on the back. Ordered some gopro mounts, the way I'm thinking of mounting is to stick the go-pro mount on the front and rear of the deck, right where it rises. And use other gopro accessories like swivels to achieve location, tuning such as angle and height.

I talked to Ernesto about the new pulleys that won't bind, he's sending them out in the next day or two. Just had them fabricated now he's painting them to protect and make them look nice. As I mentioned before they're aluminum rear pulleys, not plastic. So very durable and has a look of pure quality.

Been riding the board everyday as my daily work commuter. A+++ and predictable. Best board for reals. I love that the board is durable, I can toss it around, lay it on its side, put it up in the overhead of the commuter buses and the board takes it, no nicks or dents or any of that stuff that can get on your nerves if you're picky about looks. The Carbon GT was like carrying around a Tootsie Roll lolly pop, that thing had no perfect way to stow it. And if you put the deck on anything it was a magnet to chipping and scratching. The ride on the Trampa board is way better too. Stiff side to side when riding but it flexes up and down when needed as you hit bumps and cracks.

Here's a pic from today, will post a video or so when I get a chance to mess around with editing.

 

Here's the setup I just made for night time riding / lights. I also wear a helmet light to have full coverage. Using standard gopro hardware, removable mounts and head light. Rear light has turn signals too if you want to use them. The rear light also shoots out these laser lines to the back side which is a bit interesting for a change in the night time look. And since I have go-pro mounts front and back, I guess I could now mount cameras there in the day too for front / rear action shots.

 

First off amazing looking board! I love when people do their own thing!

Do you happen to have a direct link to those lights? how long do they last on a charge? How many lumens are they?

 

Thanks, the board wicked to ride too.

So with these lights you can google, ebay, or search amazon to find different vendors. At the time these were the cheapest I could find them.

Here's the tail-light:

And the gopro headlight, headlight is 300 lumens but more of a flood coverage. The helmet light I modified to fit on my Sony action cam mount that's on my helmet is used as a direct beam. Best riding with both, but you could ride with one or the other but have to be cautious. Runtime on the gopro light is 1.5 hours on high and 4 hours on low. It uses swapable gopro 3 batteries, so you can pick up an extra pack if you like. I also found the company sells a dual battery version, so doubling your high output run time to 3 hours and 8 hours for low. This is the single battery one:

Here is the double battery one:

And they also have this one that does not have a removable battery pack, more costly, but has the highest run time of 6 hours on high:

 

Ordering right now! Thank you brother!

 

These boards look so awesome. I wish I went this route. Oh well next board!

 

Hi wiztecy how do you get in touch with Ernesto, I'm looking at another 2 in 1 board for down the track very interested in the carver.
I've got a carbon gt like the 7' AT wheels just a bit slow when fitted. Help appreciated cheers mate.

 

kaly-nyc

 

Hi wiztecy, how are you? How is the board after a while?