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How to Clean you Evolve Carbon?

Discussion in 'Skate Equipment, Safety Gear & Spares' started by Angel, Feb 7, 2017.

More threads by Angel
  1. Angel

    Angel Member

    hi guys

    I need the best opinion for the complete cleaning of a completely disassembled carbon series

    - remove adhesive (traces of glue, protective nose)
    - clean grease and dirt carbon table
    - repair of carbon table scratches
    - screw wear arrangements on the battery cover
    - cleaning trucks
    - cleaning bushings
    - aluminum or plastic rims
    - general screws
    - bearings (not necessary here for being general)

    All help is little for this power so much praised skate

    Thanks for you support
     
  2. Sengalang

    Sengalang Member

    I am a car enthusiast, so because I have the materials, I clean mine just like one.

    Adhesives: Use bug and tar remover for all the nasty gunk that is adhered to the board that isnt easily removable by washing.

    Washing: use a sponge, preferably microfiber, to soap it up with some good quality soap. Keep in mind to avoid washing off all the lube of the bushings (or reapply afterwards) and dont directly spray water at the motors. To keep it controlled, I use a big spray bottle for rinsing. Wipe it down with a clean microfiber cloth.

    Clay: After the first wash, use a clay bar w/ lube or soapy water over all the surfaces to pick up all the microscopic dirt that is dug into the clear coat/ resin on the finish of the board. Wash the board again and dry w/ another dry towel

    Buff: If you feel the need to buff out some scratches and make the board look new again, then i'd recommend the use of a quality rotary buffer or a DUAL ACTION Random Orbital buffer (Not the ones that you'd usually find at Wal-mart) and some good Polish/Compound

    After you finish buffing, wash the board again (Yes I know its excessive)

    Once you are done, you can wax your board to help further protect it from the damaging UV light. It also helps to hide any kinds of micro scratches that you couldn't completely buff out

    this is an optional, but if you have the funds, then you can apply a glass coating to your board instead of the wax for a glossy wet sheen/another protective layer. It'll look better/protect better/and last longer. This is what I personally do.




    i'll recommend some good cheaper alternatives because the products I use for automotive care may be through the roof for some people. These are all products either i've used before, or have friends that use them on their cars with very good results.

    Soap: Meguiars Gold Class


    Wax: Meguiars Ultimate


    Clay Bar: Mothers


    Buffer: Griot's Dual Action Random Orbital 6 inch


    Compound: Meguiars 105 & 205 (2 links)








    Products that I personally use Not gonna list everything, just the general.

    Soap
    : Same as above. Soap is soap.. Just dont use Harsh soaps like Dish washing soap as it can take away all the wax you previously had on.

    Clay bar: Same as above. I pick mothers because you get more than the competition. Its all the same stuff and serves the same purpose.

    Buffer: ( 2 listed one for big surfaces, the other for hard to reach areas or rounded areas)
    Rupes BigFoot LHR21 MarkII Random Orbital Polisher



    Compound:
    I generally use the same 2 combinations as above as it is cheaper than other big name competitors, but works just as effectively.

    Glass Coating:
    Kamikaze ISM Coat

    Wax & Sealant:
    Wolfgang Füzion Estate Wax Connoisseur’s Kit, Wolfgang Fuzion car wax kit, detailing kit, wax, polish, car wash

    Tires:



    Some notes:
    If you've never used a buffer before, Go with a Dual action random orbital. It'll be much safer. If you dont know how to use a Rotary buffer, you can burn right through the resin very quickly.

    I'd also recommend having various types of Microfiber cloths in different shapes and sizes and various types as well.
    too many never hurts.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2017
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  3. Alex

    Alex Admin

    And here I am with a bucket of soapy water, a raggedy old sponge, a splash of flash liquid and a microfibre cloth :joy:
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Sengalang

    Sengalang Member

    LOL! No worries. I used to just rinse my parents car with a hose then wipe it down with a raggedy towel (no soap) back in my Jr. High days. I've been amateur detailing since high school and after a ton of screw ups and experience, you learn =P.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Alex

    Alex Admin

    One of my good friends from my paintballing days used to professionally detail cars and it's amazing how deep the rabbit hole goes.

    I just haven't got the space to keep all the accessories where I am right now. It's definitely satisfying when you've got the time to spend on it.
     
  6. Syclus

    Syclus Member

    I
    Is this better than using rubber :eek: lmao
     
  7. xrayturner

    xrayturner Member

    Ok so I have to admit I had no idea what the rubber method was so I looked it up. I also have to admit that while I wipe of the dirt off after a ride I rarely do any deep cleaning of my boards. I always check for loose screws and other components before I go for a long skate but that’s about it. I clean things during maintenance periods but find a dry or at the most damp cloth does the trick. I don’t step on my board with muddy shoes or feet so what I’m I missing here?
     
  8. Syclus

    Syclus Member

    So you just use water to clean your board? That gets it clean
     
  9. xrayturner

    xrayturner Member

    Yes a damp wash cloth or rag does the trick for me.
     
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