Braking Hard I get a clicking sound

I couldn't find them very easily either. But I found these on the builders forum and bought two from the guy: Ht5 15t steel motor pulley $11 + 40t abec flywheel / MBS all terrain pulley

I installed them today and they work great with the street wheels. I have been having belt slip issues for the past week or so(even with street wheels) on hard acceleration, no such issues after installing these(though I only tested it up and down the block, but I did some really hard starts). It seems like I will have to shave the outer flange off if i want to use it with the GT setup. I am hoping it will fix my belt slip issues I have had since day 1 with the AT setup.

 

I see a number of suggestions here for solutions to the clicking when braking hard. I only get that with my AT wheels on (carbon gt). Board is fairly new. I got my abec 11s 97mm and no issues there on braking hard. I put back my AT wheels on and the clicking on hard braking is back. I emailed evolve about it and waiting on a response.
The only suggestion i see as maybe a solid answer is the metal pulleys....but then again he says he has to proabably shave it to fit AT's....so any others with same problem find a solution? Thanks!

 

Bad wheel bearings can click while under load if they're bad or defective. Also the AT gear has its own drive bearing. Those are worth checking.

 

Thanks for the reply.

How do i know if they are bad? Hard to think that clicking noise thats rather loud comes from the bearings and only when i brake. I can go from 0-37kmh in a beat and no clicking. Ill check them out.

 

Steel is the way to go for durability over aluminum for sure! My Metroboards both came with steel ones by default since power users of the boards ( daily work commuters ) showed that the previous aluminum pulley would start mushrooming / rolling the teeth under hard use. If there's a way to improve quality with the board, he'll do it. I did some research some months ago and saved the links when I need to replace mine on the GT. If you run your GT without the belt covers (which I do) you may not need to pop off the outer flange of the steel pulley.

The ones you picked up look nice:

 

You can keep them in the wheel but pull the wheel off the axle, then put some pressure with your finger on the inside race and roll them. You want to make sure there's not a beat / odd ball bearing or roughness to the rotation. They may check out fine, but you still have to check anything that is bearing stress or under load.

 

Evolves reply to the email i sent regarding clicking when braking hard:

Before I address the clicking, please note that the belt tension has a rather large sweet spot. If you squeeze the belt together with your fingers between the two gears, it should feel squishy. Basically, there should be just enough tension for the teeth to stay interlocked. If the belt is too loose, you will notice drastically reduced braking power accompanied by a grinding sound. If the belt is too tight, the motors whine louder. As a result of too much tension, you are creating an unnecessary load on the motor, which can lead to pre-mature wear on the components in addition to reduction in overall performance.

Regarding the clicking, it is probably coming from the mechanical components of the drive train. It could be debris caught in the belt, a loose or worn gear, or maybe in the bearings.

If the clicking is coming from one side of the board, remove the wheel along with the belt. Check over the belt and both drive gears to ensure that they are free of any road debris such as pebbles or bits of glass. If found, make sure that the remaining two components did not experience damage or premature wear as a result.

If the drive train was clean, then take a look at the condition of the belt and the two gears. The motor's gear should be even throughout and should be snug on the motor's spindle. If the gear is loose tighten the set screw, and if it is flared on the end, it must be replaced. The plastic drive gear's teeth should have flat tops to them (see image) if they are pointy, the gear must be replaced.

While the wheel is off, it's a great time to check over the bolts to make sure that they are all tightened properly. If you notice any are loose, loctite or threadlocker help in preventing the bolts from walking out due to heat and vibration.

Final suggestion is the bearings. I have included a short video to illustrate how to resolve the bearings clicking:


If the problem persists, feel free to contact our techs in the service department for further assistance in diagnosis: service@evolveskateboardsusa.com

 

Hello, I have a relatively low hour board too and put the AT wheels on and the belt is skipping.
The adjustment is all the way back.. You can see by photos there is not a lot of use on this board. The belt is very loose.. Unless someone has a fix for this? I think evolve may need to address this issue.

UPDATE* OK I was able to get belts tighter, but you have to put jimmy/rock/work the motors as FAR back as possible with the belt OFF**
Sometimes it may go back further than you think, you need to kind of jiggle it, move motor up & down (maybe even clean the metal slots for dirt) and it will slide back to the very end.
In this position the front bolt only appears to be 1/2 way on the metal slot/rail. (Hopefully this will not cause problem) There is absolutely NO way to adjust further out if belt should stretch however.
So then when puting the wheel and belt back on, squeeze the belt (in space between wheels) and the belt will extend further.. then as you are squeezing belt in middle, continue rotating wheel, and the belt will eventually slide onto the rear gear. So again the trick to getting the adjustment to the very rear is to to adjust it back with the belt OFF.

So my only suggestion to evolve, is to allow customers ability to completely disable reverse. It is not worth the possibility of remote loosing temporary connection and a person pressing button too many times and have board suddenly throw into hard reverse. Plus I will never use reverse. They NEVER should have put the reverse on a button which involves shifting the forward gears!
2nd suggestion is to disable the mandatory shift to ECO mode when battery at 40%.. these two features make riding the board UN-enjoyable.. at speeds above 10-12 MPH especially after you take one spill because of these ill reasoned design flaws.

 

If it only happens on braking/accelerating then i would say its most likely NOT a bearing issue. The teeth on your drive pulleys are probably worn down. I would get some of the steel replacements listed above.

I set my belt tensions with the wheel OFF. Set the motor as far back as possible on the mount(even at max adjustment the belts will NOT be too tight so don't worry about that). Then put the belt/wheel/pulley assembly on afterwards.

 

Does anyone know what tool to use to remove the pulley's grub screw? There's a bunch of dirt in the grub screw hole and I can't really see what type of driver I need to get it out.

 

Torx T6

 

Time to get a new pulley. The pulley is fine on the other mother. Had the board 2 months.

 

Same problem with my new B GTR T.

So I increased the tension for one of the belt to start with.
What do you think? Maybe it’s too tight?
Will it drain the battery noticeable?