Remote Trigger Guard 2.0

Maybe. I had it done on a friends printer. Let me verify it works well & verify the cost if I can get more made. For the next one, can you send me an STL with "nickleberry" mirrored, so it shows from the outside correctly?
More to follow...

 

Bottom view

 

Ok cool thanks, yeah sure can, give me a couple days though, I don't have my computer with me ATM

 

No rush. I want to verify it works & what additional parts would cost. I'll be in touch by next week

 

I'll post more photos soon, once I make a few adjustments so the trigger works smoothly..

 

just ordered one can't wait to check it out and test it. thanks for the work and time you put into this nickelberry

 

Got mine manufactured today, it will take some sandning to get it just right

Cheers!

 

Cool, looks like a good print

 

I hope you downloaded the most recent version that I uploaded yesterday, it adds a little extra room for the trigger.

 

I'm guessing it's an old one, the date says november 2016

But it looks and feel good so it's alright, thanks dude!

 

But its got your name on it...lol

I want that one too!!! Maybe in black.

 

It's a homebuilt printer. But pretty much the same specs as a Ultimaker 2+.

 

Perfect design

 

Awesome. First day on the forums & was wondering about 3D printed accessories as I have a Makergear M2, will definitely give this a try & post results!

 

Hey Zac, where did you have this printed and which material was used for clear print? Thank you

 

I have no experience in 3D printing using PLA and ABS (20 years ago I did 3D steraolithograpy but that's a different world). I wanted to run this by the group on some printing advice. First off, thank you Nickelberry... amazing job on the 3d model.

I used 3D Hub and got a the model printed but was very disappointed with the results (not because of the original file). The high school 'kid" who printed it used PLA and when all said and done, it was really rough (he claimed he used 50 microns). The side wall was slightly warp. The screw post was really rough. I ended up hand sanding and dremel sanding the final model for about 1 hour just to get the electric component to fit (really tight - the screws didn't align perfectly). To my complete disappointment, when I turn on the remote, it won't pair with the board. Even after a full reset pairing. My suspicions is that I am somehow stressing the electronics (kinda freaked out). Took the electronics back out and put it back on the old case and the remote re-paried perfectly and worked perfectly (whew!!).

I wanted to ping the community.

- Is ABS plastic better?
- Did the 'kid' who printed it simply did a poor job (I didn't know there were skills involved in this)?
- Should the part fit perfectly after sanding or can we expect shrinkage, etc. that throws the tolerance off.
- How many microns should this be printed at?
- What type of putty is recommended to create a smooth finish?
- For those how have actually printed the file, how happy are you all with the results (I did the one without the grips)?

 

Sounds like you have had an unfortunate experience, sorry about that.
The model is pretty much perfect and if printed correctly should fit no problems.
You should get it printed with ABS, PLA is easy to print but will melt on a hot day in the sun.
Yeah sounds like the kid didn't do a good job.
The print should fit without any sanding, but sanding will make it look nicer.
I print mine at 300 microns but the smaller the better
I use spray on car body filler to fill small gaps, but there are loads of different ways to do this.