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- Thread: New Paint
- Thread: User updatable firmware
Some users may be inadvertently shifting into reverse. Reverse may not be needed for many riders, so this would be a good safety feature.
related feature preference: “stop before direction change” (also a safety feature, but perhaps not needed if user doesn’t need reverse)
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So as most of us are aware some of us have had a few issues with drop outs that can be very unsettling at any time of your ride. This has happened to me from day one and I have been following various remedies since then. I think the Evolve team have been very proactive helping people with various issues and remedies have included replacing remotes and mother boards etc. They have even offered me a chance to come down to the factory and have a look at my board to help me fix it which is great. Its a three hour turn around the for me so I haven't managed to get there just yet.
That said I think I have solved my own issue and wanted to share it to see if can help anyone else out there.
I work for a major computer fruit company and I have built a few Carbon fibre drones from scratch so I know a little about computers and how to wire things up.
I have travelled around 600km on my board with drop out issues. The last 46km I have had no issues at all. This is the simple thing I did.
I have unplugged the battery wires and the wires from the speed controller feeding the motors. Just like on a quad copter the wires create an electromagnetic field when current travels through them. The larger the draw of current the bigger electromagnetic frequency. Hence when I climb hills in fast mode I was most susceptible to drop outs even at the start of my journey with everything fully charged.
If you gently twist the wires on each feed from the battery and to the motors before you plug them back in, I have now eliminated all my drop outs for the last 46km of travel. this includes all of my hill climbs at the start and end of my journey.
Of course this still may not work for everyone you may have hardware issues, but its worth a go and costs you nothing.
Here is a picture below what the inside of my board looks like now. Ill keep you posted to see if I have any other problems over even longer distances.
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As I was new to skateboarding I had to learn everything from the beginning and as I started on the electric skateboard it was even a little more difficult. And the reason is that it is so easy to get to the higher speeds (which normally requires a lot of effort unless you dare to go downhill straight away). This higher speeds also brings some additional challenges and the most known is probably the: Speed Wobble or sometimes called Death Wobble.
And if you think what is it exactly you will notice as soon as you hit a certain speed and the board below you seems to have decided to do something unexpected which will definitely throw you off the board.
There are some things you can do like tighten your trucks, change bushings, etc. but also anything you did not expect could cause Speed Wobble to happen. Think of a small dent in the road, wind, a small pebble or even a small distraction by looking at something else.......
So if you have setup everything from an equipments perspective in the perfect way, let’s look at what you can do to handle a Speed Wobble as you will never be able to completely avoid this to happen. Especially if you are going to push some personal limits (like the GT mode on the Evolve boards).
Here are 4 tips which might help you and as Einstein said: Experience is the only source of knowledge! So go out and practice, practice and practice.
1. Lean Forward
When riding your board you should already have found out that moving your weight to be over the front axle is key to get maximum stability and control over the trucks. Your center of gravity is important here and it should be at this spot.
It might be easier if you just focus on where you want to go (when you ride a motorcycle you do the same when riding corners) and lean into that thought so to speak. This will probably also help you do the same with your body. Tell the board where you want to go and when you feel a wobble starting make sure you stay all the way forward to help you get control back and steer the board.
2. Stay low
When something happens when on the board the instant reaction (in most cases) is to stand up and start moving your arms, etc. You have to train yourselves to not do this and bend your knees and stay low and keep low whatever happens. If you feel a wobble you can also just move to an even slightly lower position which will probably avoid the wobble to get worse. Move in small smooth increments, no sudden movements. Doing something abrupt will feed the Angry wobble monster.
This happens when you don't stay low!
3. Keep your cool and relax
This one is easy but sometimes very difficult especially as you feel you are getting close to pushing your personal limits on higher speeds. They way you have to look at this is that you and your electric skateboard will become one. Energy, vibrations, movements all become a factor and when you are standing on the board like a stiff tree you can imagine the effect. So you need to keep a loose body and consider yourself as a piece of rubber on the board absorbing the vibrations and energy coming from the board and make sure not push it back to the board.
If you want to test this relaxed approach use an adult and a kid who have never been on an electric skateboard. Let them step on the board and make sure it is in slow to avoid injuries. Kids will be in most cases excited and look forward to the fun and magic to happen. Adults will probably prepare for something they will not enjoy (like falling of the board) and think about many things besides to relax and enjoy. This has a huge effect as when you pull the trigger and the board starts to move, kids will compensate for the sudden movement by being more flexible in the response and they will not be thrown off easily, they will use this experience (flexible/relaxed is positive) and they will pick this up really quickly and start riding. Adults will keep a stiffer posture (think of the tree) and will in most cases need to jump off, when trying again it sometimes gets worse as they use all their muscle strength to prepare for the movement instead of being flexible and relaxed.
So in short: loose knees and ankles and let those legs act as shock absorbers and you will definitely feel the difference.
4. Make a slight turn
You might not be thinking about anything else but staying on the board when the wobble kicks in but starting a very light turn will do some magic. Do start in a smooth way and make it a gradual carve. If you do a quick turn the wobble effect will throw you off the board without a second thought. The reason the Wobble is happening is that the truck is making an effort to get to equilibrium and it compensates every time which makes the wobbles even bigger. When starting a slight turn the trucks are kind of pushed back to this equilibrium without this overcompensation happening.
Remember that anybody will at some point experience a wobble and if not something else will throw you off your board at some point. So simply stay within your limits and make sure that you at least wear a helmet to protect yourself.
Any feedback or suggestions are welcome!
Further Reading: Evolve Trucks how to help with speed wobble
Evolve Video on how to setup your trucks: How to setup your skateboard trucks [video]Last edited: Dec 19, 2016
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- Thread: Customize your Evolve
just wanted to share a few things i've done to my board so far.
Last edited: Jan 21, 2017
- add LED light strips under the board. the battery and control module case are stuck to the bottom using heavy duty velcro although i plan to mount a small box under the two front truck mounting nuts.
- as soon as i got my board i scratched my motor by standing my board upright. i installed a "bumper" by wrapping 3M temflex rubber splicing tape around my motor brackets. simply wrap tight and it holds nicely.
- here is a foam seal underneath my cover plate that i installed to keep sand from entering the compartment. this also protects from "traces" of water due to the type of foam i used.
- covered my entire board with grip tape due to the extreme riding conditions i will be riding in.
- balanced all four wheels. the rear two are the most important. no vibrations and no more shaking and incredibly smooth now. i balanced these wheels like you would with car wheels. below you will see two square 7gram weights painted black and stuck in with silicone adhesive.
- made a simple handle that anyone can easily make. simple just find a thick strap and stitch it to make a loop. works really well and i can just put it in my back pocket. great if you don't want to drill a bulky handle on the side of your board
- hope this helps ! enjoy the ride!!
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Ok. I was able to talk to Alex today on the phone regarding the incorrect behavior I had been experiencing with my board. We spoke for over 30 minutes on the phone, and I was able to discuss my experience. Alex was very compassionate, open, and apologized for the way my board was acting up as well as the difficulty I was having in resolving the issue. He also noted that is not his goal nor the goal of EvolveUSA or Evolve in general. He also stated that he really strives for a positive customer experience and honestly wishes he personally could test and verify each board is working as it should before it goes out to the customer so that a customer wouldn't end up with the experience that I encountered.
From the conversation we had, I honestly felt relived, I felt good that I'm being heard, and was happy I was talking to someone live who really felt like I do about quality, and knows a high bar should be held for that. Alex noted that my emails propagated up to him, and once they did, he then forward them off to Jeff who owns Evolve. Alex said he'll be talking to Jeff about what I discussed about the board and about the entire customer experience I had which gave me a bad impression on Evolve and the GT product. We also talked along the lines of how many boards are sold and the defects he sees in terms of ratios. He noted the defects/RMAs are low compared to the number of boards sold, and he confirmed that Jeff keeps a close eye on this number to ensure it doesn't go astray. He also noted that when a customer's board has been repaired, that the bad part / defective item is tagged with a tracking tag and sent back off to China where they are made so a full diagnostics can be performed on the part, that way, they can see why it failed and that correct it in manufacturing in the future if need be.
In the end, Alex put the power in my hands to decide what I really wanted and how I would like to have this handled. I honestly felt empowered as a customer, and I thank him for that. Since I had my board back to them before and it still was having issues, I had sent Evolve an email asking for either a full refund of my money or to have a new board that's known to work properly swapped for mine which was having problems. He left the decision up to me, and only me. And again I thank him for that. This is how true customer service is made, by actions. Actions that clearly show that the company stands by their product and ultimately wants the customer to have a positive experience with it. And if the customer does not have a good experience, to step in and clearly state that they want to change that, to turn that experience around to be a good one. That is the root of good customer service.
So for me, I now need if I just want my money back and call it quits for the GT or to swap out my board for a brand new one and keep on riding. I'm leaning towards the latter honestly. The board is a beautiful board and it is very very fun, very very fast, and very very quick not to mention it carves like a dream. So loosing that would be quite depressing I'd have to say. I'm happy to give Evolve another chance with another board. Not only that I have an open channel with Alex if something odd arises, but I have the feeling I may be ok this time around. But one point I did stress is that I would like Evolve to fully investigate and understand the issues that my current board had exhibited. I stated it may be induced by RF interference in my area, and happy to provide any information they need to dig deeper into the issue. I also discussed other theories that many of us have discussed in this forum on what could cause the issues we've been seeing. Again Alex listened and had a very intelligent and professional discussion the entire time through. I also noted to Alex that I will try to gather information from other riders who've had similar issues if this may help Evolve in any way. So with that, feel free to PM me if you had any problems that were similar to mine. I'll try to get them all organized and presentable for Alex. With that, Alex said he's on our side. The customer's side. And when you hear that, its refreshing and re-assuring. There are some things that can't be expressed or described right over the email channel, with the phone you get to hear the callers full emotion, feel their true professionalism, and sense if they really mean it or not. What I felt truly from this call was that Alex and Evolve wants to get it right this time, that ultimately their success relies on the end-user's customer experience.
Thank you Alex.
Thank you Evolve.
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- Thread: Customize your Evolve
I added some colour to my Carbon Gt today... Irish hubs
I got my first flat tyre, so it gave me a reason to add some tyre liners and spray the hubs...
All in all it cost me €5 for the spray which gives me new hubs....
I added tyre liners too...
Drying over the heater in between coats
Tyre liner edges cut so there is no sharp edges
I used paper and old bearings to block any gaps...
Preparation for spraying the hub
I used Rust oleum peel coat spray paint in green, you can apply this for up to 4 months and then peel it off and reapply a different colour, I got this idea from Evolve's latest customisation video on youtube...
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Disclaimer: This tip may not really be from a professional.
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- Thread: Any other "old guys or gals"?
- Thread: Six Wheeler
- Thread: Customised bamboo GT
- Thread: Remote Trigger Guard 2.0
Mod Edit: Previous thread about the guard for more info
Hey Guys and Gals,
I have designed the second generation of my remote trigger guard and made the design freely available at the link below. This guard is a complete replacement of the bottom half of the remote, I have been using one for the best part of a month now and I have been really happy with it. If you would like one printed check out "3D Hubs" you should be able to get your hands on one relatively cheaply. I was planning at one stage to sell them myself but I think making the design free is just a nicer way of getting them out there. Anyway I hope this helps some of you out
Evolve GT Remote Trigger Guard by Nickelberry
3D Hubs: Browse online 3D printing services
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- Thread: Customize your Evolve
First of all I want to make it clear that this is the first battery I have built, so take everything I say with a grain of salt.
After around 150 cycles the stock battery in my BGT was pretty much flogged, so I thought I would build a much larger replacement with higher quality cells. This is how I went about it.
What I built
I made a 12ah battery which is almost twice the capacity of the stock battery, it is comprised of 40 x LG HG2 18650 cells setup in a 4p10s configuration. This new pack experiences very little voltage lag and does not seem to overheat causing cut offs like the stock pack (this happens when you are pushing hard in long grass for an extended period of time). This new pack is longer and thicker than the stock pack so significant modifications to the plastic battery case was required. It also reuses the stock BMS and uses the stock charger.
Finished project (well mostly finished)
this should give you a conceptual idea of how the battery works. Note the order of the balance wires in this diagram are not how they appear in reality.
Checking the cells:
I started by individually testing and charging each cell to make sure they were all genuine and at the same voltage. to do this I used a "AccuPower IQ338 Battery Charger Analyzer Tester".
Once I was happy my cells were all good I selected 20 of them and added an extra layer of heat shrink to them, these 20 cells would be on the outside of each parallel pack so I wanted them to have an extra layer of protection. I then grouped all the cells in groups of 4. Then the cells were glued together with hot glue then reinforced with fibreglass tape.
The next step was to add insulator rings to the positive ends of the cells for yet another layer of protection.
In preparation I had designed and printed a couple little tools for holding two groups of cells together, these are shown below. These allow you to perfectly lineup the groups for welding.
I used 10mm x 0.15mm nickel as it was the thickest I could weld and the widest I could find. For the series connections I doubled up layering the nickel 2x thick to allow loads of current through. Then I added one long parallel strip to stabilise and current share the pack (I had already soldered on a balance wire to each of these long strips, its best to do this before you weld the strip on because batteries don't like heat). I was welding on pretty much max settings on my welder doing 4 welds (8 spots) for each connection. I also cut the corners of the strips on the positive end to reduce the chance that it would cut its way through the insolation.
After welding I ended up with this.
I then "butterfled" each double group like this.
Then I added more tape parallel to the cells to make sure the nickel did not feel any stress, also I covered up the nickel with tape.
After doing this 5 more times I had these.
Now each of these double groups was effectively a rigid block and I needed to allow them to flex on each other as the deck flexed, so I designed and printed these little spaces. These spaces were covered in tape then taped between each double group.
This allowed the battery to flex a lot.
Now I needed to make the rest of the connections on the outside of the battery. These ones were a little more tricky as they needed to allow for some flex. So I soldered (using a 80W iron) some 10AWG high strand (flexible) silicone coated wire to long strips of nickel like shown below. The small gaps between the nickel is very flexible. I made 4 of these and welded them on. Then I soldered some long runs of wire to more nickel which was welded to the ends of the battery.
More tape, so much damn tape
Then it was just a matter of wiring up the stock BMS to the new battery which was pretty straight forward. Just make sure to label everything as you are going along.
Required background reading (seriously if you are going to do this read all of this stuff and understand it, also watch all the videos.)
Endless-sphere.com • View topic - Evolve Carbon AT with 50km+ range
Endless-sphere.com • View topic - Landyachtz TopSpeed 90mm 10S4P DualRearDrive
Endless-sphere.com • View topic - 18650 spot welding -how to- ULTIMATE REPOSITORY
40x LG HG2 18650 cells ($400)
Nickel strip 10mm x 0.15mm ($30)
Fiberglass tape 20mm wide ($20)
10AWG high strand flexy silicone wire 3m ($20)
Good quality solder
18650 insulator rings
Soldering iron 80W
Soldering iron adjustable low wattage
AccuPower IQ338 Battery Charger Analyzer Tester
The other part of this project was the battery case extension, I figure people will do this in there own way, but all I did was purchase a Bamboo Gen 2 battery case from Evolve and used parts of it to extend the stock case. I did this about in inch in the front and an inch at the back of the battery.
To accomodate for the extra thickness I added some printed spaces, shown sitting on the deck.
Thats about everything I can think of right now, if you have any questions let me know. I will upload the 3D files in the next couple of days.
Big thanks to Spartan117 and paulfulwood for inspiration and help in the design process, plus all the Guys that helped out on this thread Custom battery for Evolve Bamboo GTLast edited: Apr 4, 2017
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- Thread: First commute to the office
- Thread: Customize your Evolve
Weston GT Member
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